Curious about candat sotong? This Malaysian squid jigging tradition takes place every year off the coast of Kuala Terengganu during the annual Candat Sotong Festival, and throughout the squid season. After 10 years of wanting to join, I finally did have my first candat sotong experience. From rustic fishing boats to the real challenge of catching dinner with a handline, here’s what it’s actually like to take part in this no-frills adventure at sea.
Candat sotong means ‘squid jigging’ in Malay language. It refers to a traditional night fishing method using special lures (called jigs) to attract and catch squid. It’s popular on Malaysia’s east coast, especially in Terengganu, where the squid season runs from March to August and peaks around May. While it’s now gaining traction as a local and international tourism experience, candat sotong tourism has actually been quietly promoted for the past ten years or so.
The squid caught during the annual Candat Sotong Festival are usually sotong torak (mitre squid), a larger, meatier species that locals prize. Terengganu’s coastal waters become especially active during spawning season, making it an ideal location for this long-standing squid jigging tradition.
As a California transplant squid jigging isn’t new to me, nor being on rustic wooden boats with salty sailors. So, I was prepared to get dirty, be uncomfortable and hopefully live to tell the tale. Nevertheless, I was excited. Any opportunity to be on a boat is A-Okay with me.
Perhaps what surprised me was how little had been done to adapt the boats for what was, essentially, a tourism promotion effort. They were very much working boats, practical, unpolished, and unapologetically real. But hey, I get it. A few boats are invited to participate and more than a few eager hands go up and a seriously authentic squid jigging event is born.
However, newbies eager to have their own candat sotong experience should indeed be prepared. This is much more than a few fun selfie moments and to be honest, a little dangerous. These boats are built for function, not comfort, which is part of the charm, if you’re ready for it. And they don’t usually have daily maid service, so they can get pretty gnarly. Especially when it comes to anything resembling a toilet.
That said, the boat I was on was one of eight that departed from the nearby waters of Jeti Bot Penambang Pasar Payang in the late afternoon. Water taxis delivered us media folks to our assigned squid boats first, and then we soon headed out to sea. Although walking space was pretty tight, I found a spot in the back (next to the makeshift toilet).
Without exterior safety lines, I wasn’t sure I could trust my rusty sea legs not to fail me, and I sure as heck didn’t want to be part of a man (or woman) overboard scenario. And with the number of influencers on board, that potential 15 minutes of Instagram fame would not have been pleasant. Embarrassing, if you will.
Overall, the ride out to sea was excellent. The South China Sea, a friendly emerald green, was picture perfect as we passed under the Kuala Terengganu Drawbridge. I was grinning ear to ear. I had actually wanted to join this annual squid jigging festival for the past 10 years, after I first saw a few of my blogger friends had attended. But alas, it is usually by invitation only. However, this year it was finally my turn. My non-Malaysian status apparently deemed me as token international participant and I was very appreciative of that.
Due to the weight of these large wooden boats, it took us about an hour to reach a mere 10 kilometers offshore. But the seas were relatively calm so tossing around was thankfully minimal. Once we dropped anchor, jigging handlines were passed out with a brief demonstration and we were good to go. I’m not a big handline fan, but when in Rome (or Kuala Terengganu) you toe the line so to speak. A few on our boat had brought their own rods and reels though.
I had certainly thought this was going to be a piece of cake for an old sea gal like myself, but I was wrong. In fact, I was a complete failure. I did get one serious bite, but it got away. It wasn’t long before my disappointment turned to boredom, but I was pleasantly distracted with the sunset and hearing the hoots of more successful jiggers on other boats.
Packets of food were eventually distributed, but it wasn’t nearly as exciting as I had hoped. I’m more of an easy finger food girl when it comes to eating on bobbing boats. Cold noodles in plastic containers doesn’t sit too well with me either.
Apparently, I wasn’t the only one who was rapidly losing interest in the fun adventure at sea, because my team slowly passed out on the front deck (or so I was told). We were all pretty wiped out from the jam-packed morning we’d already had.
Happily, we returned to shore a bit earlier than expected, but the overall vibe of the group was of contentment and savoring the experience. Would I want to do it again? Yes! Despite me picking apart a few things, it was an interesting experience and one I wouldn’t soon forget.
I didn’t catch any squid, but I did catch a beautiful sunset and a glimpse of a Terengganu tradition that’s rustic, real, and not for the faint of heart. If you have the opportunity to try this for yourself, I’d say go for it!
Candat Sotong Jigging Tips For Newbies:
*Make sure your life jacket fits properly and wear it.
*Dress appropriately. You may get dirty, wet, cold, or hot. You’ll also be around salty sailors, so bikinis or revealing clothing might feel out of place at some point.
*Wear non-skid, closed-toe shoes.
*Bring a rain jacket and a hat (preferably one that ties or secures because it will try to fly off).
*Pack a small towel or rag for wiping your hands.
*Wet wipes will be a blessing if fresh water and soap are limited.
*Bring your own food and drinks, just in case the provided options are sparse or unappetizing.
*Feeling seasick? Don’t go below deck, stay in the open air and keep your eyes on the horizon.
*If you’re prone to motion sickness, this adventure may not be for you, unless you’re truly hard core. Either way, non-drowsy seasickness meds are a smart move.
*Watch your step on deck. Even if someone rushes you, take your time because slips happen fast on wet boats.
*Mind your neighbor’s jigging style. Getting jabbed in the eye by a squid lure is not part of the fun. If someone’s careless, speak up or shuffle away.
*Bring a garbage bag. Last but not least, bring a garbage bag with you, which will be a big help to the boatmen who may be inclined to flick cigarettes and wrappers overboard. Old habits die slowly and being green-minded is not necessarily universal. If litter at sea is one of your personal pet peeves, then assign yourself the thankless task of being the unofficial ‘trash monitor’ on board. You’ll sleep better and a whole lot of sea creatures will benefit.
Want to Try Candat Sotong for Yourself?
March to August is the best time for squid fishing in Kuala Terengganu, but if you’re aiming for the annual Candat Sotong Festival, check in with Tourism Malaysia or Gaya Travel for the actual dates. You can also contact Jasa Teratai Holidays for seasonal tour options, at +6019-380 5754/ +6019-230 2333. Be prepared, pack smart, and bring a good sense of humor, especially if you’re not used to rustic boat life!
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