Category Archives: Nature

Langkawi Birdwatching

One becomes accustomed to the birds of their own country and the chirping can eventually become background sounds competing with the cacophony of modern times. Perhaps in the quiet hours of the approaching day they get front stage. But in Langkawi the diverse population of birds makes it possible to see and hear birds at all hours of the day, although there is definitely more bird social interaction during the cooler times of the day, such as morning and late afternoon/early evening.

CRIMSON SUNBIRD by Sofian Zack

Reading bird field guides are great for the more scientifically inclined bird enthusiasts, but the average curious individual would do well to indulge in an actual bird watching or nature tour . It only took one enthusiastic naturalist and a few interesting tales, to have me immediately purchasing a field guide and a pair of binoculars in my quest to become a ‘birder’.  I’ve since replaced Florida seagulls and robins with magnificent Brahminy Kites, glorious Hornbills and many more of the 200-plus species of birds residing in Langkawi, including those popping in for a rest during their migrations. Far too many to cover in a BLOG, here’s just a teaser of the fascination world of bird watching in Langkawi.

BRAHMINY KITES
The Brahminy Kite starts the list as it’s considered by many to be the namesake of Langkawi: helang-eagle, kawi- reddish-brown. And although it’s not actually an eagle, the Brahminy Kite certainly looks like the eagle of my American homeland and joins the other birds-of-prey in the rapture family. Hunters by nature, their natural diet of fish and small animals keeps them healthy and numerous in Langkawi, ensuring their continued importance in the balance of Langkawi’s eco-system.

BRAHMINY KITE by Ian Roberts

There’s an interesting old tale from Papua, New Guinea that’s passed through Southeast Asia. It is about a mother who left her baby under a banana tree while working in a field, the baby floating towards the sky crying as it magically transformed into a Brahminy Kite and flew away. That may sound a bit mythical, but adult Brahminy Kites not only have distinct brown and white coloring, they can also be identified by a very distinct call, which sounds… like a baby crying.

WHITE-BELLIED SEA EAGLES
It may take a novice some time to spot the difference between a Brahminy Kite and a Sea Eagle, because both birds have different coloring as juveniles.  A young Sea Eagle could be mistaken for a young Brahminy Kite and visa versa. Seeing them either scouring the land and sea for prey can be quite the National Geographic moment, especially when witnessing the sudden plunge to earth and the rapid departure of either bird carrying its wiggling prey through the skies. The real deal is much more amazing than a staged feeding and isn’t that rare of an opportunity.

WHITE BELLIED SEA EAGLE by Ian Roberts

In Malaysia, not only is the White-Bellied Sea Eagle the emblem for the state of Selangor, it’s also known as “burung hamba siput”, or slave of the shellfish. Their loud callings are believed to be a warning to shellfish of the changing tides; even the novice will be able to distinguish their call that sounds similar to the geese-like ‘honking’.

BAYA WEAVERS
The Baya Weavers leave their calling cards all over Langkawi in the form of intricately woven grass baskets of tremendous diversity. But take a closer look and you’ll see that those amazing constructions are actually nests. These talented-feathered architects will actually construct a nest in hopes of luring a mate. Of course they use a variety of building supplies, including sticks and leaf fibers, so lots of creative potential. If turned down, this Romeo of the bird world will throw the nest to the ground and build another one and hopefully the new design will convince his potential future mate that he is the one!

BAYA WEAVERS NEST

EDIBLE NEST SWIFTLETS:
Speaking of nests, another unique nest builder would be the Edible-Nest Swifter. Their nests are built almost entirely of saliva and the main ingredient of bird nest soup. These bird nests have been used in Chinese cooking for over 400 years! Supposedly rich in nutrients and wondrous health benefits this ancient Chinese secret is out, and with it comes a billion dollar import-export industry.

AN ANCIENT CHINESE SECRET

Throughout Langkawi and the rest of Malaysia, one might come across a building with massive chirping sounds, “tweeters”, emerging from it. For the unsuspecting, an Alfred Hitchcock movie might immediately come to mind but fear not, this is the modern day bird housing of the bird-nest industry replacing their natural cave nesting preference with abandoned (or intentionally abandoned) urban buildings. The bird call recordings can go on for hours inviting all to the latest open house.

KINGFISHERS:
One of the most colorful (literally) of the Langkawi bird population is the Kingfisher. These funny little birds can be seen easily and quite frequently due to their colorful plumage. There are eight species of Kingfisher in Langkawi, some resident and some migratory but all with unique coloring showing no preference between sexes. Since they generally live near water and wetlands, they can easily spotted waiting for their next meal of fish, frogs, insects and even crabs.

WHITE THROATED KINGFISHER by Sofian Zack

So what’s the ‘legend’ behind Kingfishers? Well, there are more than one and they span the globe from American Indians to the Dusin tribes of Borneo. Oral ‘history’ having a way of morphing into multiple interpretations, here is one ‘tale’. The Kingfisher’s coloring has been credited to a biblical tale of a Grey Kingfisher being one of the first birds to leave Noah’s Ark in search of land. Flying too near the sun his breast got burned brown and being struck by lightening created the electric blue markings.

HORNBILLS:
Last but not least, the mighty Hornbill is another prominent face representing the magical tropics of Malaysia and their calls are the epitome of a tropical soundtrack. Often mistaken by new comers to the region as Toucans, Hornbills are often the poster birds of Eco-tourism due to their important role in the rainforest eco-system. Of the ten species of Hornbills residing in Malaysia, three species can be found in Langkawi; the permanent residents would be the Great Hornbill and the Oriental Pied Hornbill while the Wreathed Hornbill visit during the dry-season.  Due to their large size their nesting of choice is usually in the hollows of very large trees, thus their census is a direct indicator of rainforest health.

GREAT HORNBILL by Ian Roberts

You can find Hornbills in various trees in the morning as well as late afternoons/early evenings and to watch them is one of those, “Wow!” moments. Their numbers have been threatened in the past, due to their ‘golden jade’ or ‘yellow ivory’ (bills) which once was valued higher than ‘real’ ivory Their bills have been use in tribal arts and those past artifacts are still circulating in the lucrative International Tribal Arts industry today.

THE ‘GOLDEN JADE”

Historically Hornbills have also had mystical importance, their calls sometimes seen as a sign of changes to come. Their black and white tail feathers also are believed to give power and courage, which is why the Iban warriors of Borneo included them in their ceremonial dances.  Fortunately this in the past and Hornbills are now protected in Malaysia and they can continue their important roles in the eco-system.

Out of over 720 species of birds in Malaysia, over 200 reside in Langkawi. And although not everyone is going to run out and get a field guide and binoculars like I did, the experience of bird watching will most likely take you to another level of nature appreciation.

*photos by Ian Roberts courtesy of Dev’s Adventure Tours
*photos by Sofian Zack courtesy of Langkawi photographer Sofian Zack

 

 

Dev’s Adventure Tours: Cycling Adventure!

I’ve grown to appreciate ‘guided’ tours more in recent years. Maybe I’ve gotten lazy or finally realized that I can often learn more from legitimate ‘tour’ operators. Of course, that can sometimes be tricky. But I’ve been fortunate to meet up with a few passionate and knowledgeable guides in Langkawi.

OUR GUIDE KHIRIEN EDUCATING US ON LOCAL PRODUCE

 I’d often seen Dev’s Adventure Tours company cycling through the village I live in and they always looked like they were having a good time. I’d been saving this particular sightseeing adventure to share with cycling enthusiast friends, but it seems the older I got, the fewer cycling enthusiast friends I had!

THESE TWO WERE LOTS OF FUN

So last week I signed on. I hadn’t really asked any questions about how far or how long, because I’d seen all shapes, sizes and ages on those tours. If they could handle it, certainly I could. I was in for a surprise, but a pleasant one!

KUALA TERIANG FISHING VILLAGE

The tour starts near my house, so I met up with Dev’s Tour guide Khirien and two guests from Hong Kong for my cycling adventure. When I was initially told where we were riding to, scary thoughts of roadside CPR crossed my mind. But, not only was the journey fantastic, the pace was easy but far from boring. Riding through Langkawi countryside is truly spectacular and the sensory stimulation alone is quite energizing.

THE BEAUTIFUL LANDSCAPE OF LANGKAWI

We rode through the local fishing village and then onto the wet market, stopping along the way next to the rice fields as we caught sightings of various birds, plant life and cultural practices where Khirien was eager to share his vast knowledge and answer questions. Much more personal than reading a guidebook.

THE UNIVERSAL “HELLO”

From the wet market, we rode down various side trails that I had no idea existed. That point A to point B, became more of an ‘as the crow flies‘ distance with little rolling hills insuring some great coasting!  We saw fruit trees, rubber tree harvesting, and many colorful birds, including a large group of Hornbills. Where there are trees there will definitely be birds and in Langkawi, the bird watching is world class.

THESE TINY BUDS ARE FUTURE BANANAS

I don’t want to spoil the trip for you when you take it, so I’ve kept my descriptions brief. And although this trip is a few hours in length, even the non-athletic will enjoy it. With so many interesting things to see along the way, you may want to keep on going!

ENERGIZED!

 Depending on the particular time of year, this tour could easily be repeated and you’d still see and learn something new. Nature is constantly revolving in Langkawi.  Different plants, flowers and fruits all rotating to keep things fresh and picturesque. I had a great time and I’m pretty sure you will too.

*Can read about Dev’s Adventure Tours: Untold Stories Tour (HERE)

 

 

Dev’s Adventure Tours
Pantai Cenang, Langkawi
Tel: +60 (0)19 4949193

Fax: +60 (0)4 9554892
 www.langkawi-nature.com
e-mail: info@langkawi-nature.com

 

 

Dev’s Adventure Tours: Untold Stories of Langkawi

My first introduction to Langkawi’s abundant nature was with Dev Dass, of Dev’s Adventure Tours. A simple evening walk around the lush Berjaya Resort grounds was a real eye opener. There were critters everywhere! But I wouldn’t have even noticed them if not for my knowledgeable guide. Picasso meets Houdini with some of the magnificent camouflage!

FLYING LEMUR (not flying)

Nothing is more contagious than a person’s passion for nature and being in Langkawi is a nature lover’s paradise. I’ve since run into Dev’s tour guides around Langkawi sharing their passion with visitors from around the world. From cycling through rice paddies and kampongs, trekking through jungles, touring the mangroves and even sharing their knowledge of local fruits and vegetables found at the wet markets.

DRAGON FRUIT: GROWN LOCAL & SOLD AT LOCAL MARKETS

It was only recently that I heard about a new tour scheduled: Dev’s Adventure Tours’ Untold Stories of Langkawi.  A unique idea for a Langkawi tour and led by local expert Selva (the mastermind of this original idea). I had wanted to learn more about Langkawi and Malaysian culture and I was graciously invited to tag along with the paying guests.

SELVA CHATTING WITH AUSTRALIAN GUEST

We started our adventure at Bon Ton and Temple Tree Resorts, where the back drop of multicultural architecture gives Selva an opportunity to point out the various features from Chinese, Thai, Malaysian and Colonial influences. The adjacent resorts are an amazing tribute to Malaysian History. Did you know that once upon a time, the number of stilts a home had was directly related to the occupants’ social standing?

TRADITIONAL HOME

Next on the list was a countryside drive through back roads of Langkawi.  We stopped several times in various villages (kampungs) where Selva spoke of local culture and history, from the British rule to the origin of the rubber industry and Langkawi’s own colorful history. Did you know that Langkawi was once a place where  ‘certain’  lawbreakers were exiled?

RUBBER TREE ‘TAPPING’

He also pointed out numerous plants and flowers, which were either used in local cuisine or for medicinal purposes. Selva’s knowledge of local plants is amazing and I certainly cannot do it justice in a few sentences. You have to experience it first hand to appreciate it. He pointed out one nondescript little roadside plant that could even save the life of a snakebite victim! And, I had no idea that Dragon Fruit was grown locally and part of the cactus family.

DETAILED EXPLANATION OF A LOCAL PLANT

I thought this tour was coming to and end at this point, but we continued through the back roads of  Langkawi and suddenly, we pulled onto a small rocky road.  There in front of me was a huge white limestone cliff with a golden statue. We had arrived at a Thai Cave Temple, that I had no idea existed in Langkawi. As an artist, I could appreciate the eclectic colorful touches, but spiritually (to me) there was also something quite magical about it. Again, I cannot do it justice with a few sentences.

AMAZING GOLDEN STATUE

From there we made a brief stop at a Kuah night market, where Selva enticed our taste buds with local flavors, before taking us to his home. It was difficult to resist all the food but as Selva’s ‘VIP’ guests we were able to sample small bits here and there, leaving plenty of room for our home cooked meal to come.

NIGHT MARKET FEAST

When we got to Selva’s home, his wife Alma and his daughters were waiting for us with open arms, greeting us with smiles and the aroma of homemade Indian food. It was an excellent meal with an excellent local family that I now feel part of. As someone who has spent a lot of time in Langkawi, I can tell you that this
tour ‘ is much more than just a tour. It’s a true cultural experience. Presently it’s only scheduled on Wednesdays and Saturdays, so keep that in mind.  You don’t want to miss it.

*Selva is also quite a community advocate for GREEN awareness, click HERE

 

Dev’s Adventure Tours
Rumah Kedai No. 1, Tingkat 3, Lot 1556
Tanjung Mali
Pantai Cenang, Langkawi
Tel: +60 (0)19 4949193

Fax: +60 (0)4 9554892
website: www.langkawi-nature.com
e-mail: info@langkawi-nature.com

 

*Can read about Dev’s Adventure Tours : Nature Cycling Trip HERE

 

 

 

The Humble Coconut

When we think of Palm trees, most people think of tropical islands.  Lazing under a coconut palm listening to sound of the surf and drinking a coconut infused cocktail… But in Langkawi, like many island environments, the coconut palm has a much broader purpose.

LANGKAWI PALMS

Its the fruit of plenty for an assortment of foodstuffs, health products, household items and even construction material.

ISLAND GUEST SHOPPING FOR COCONUTS

The term ‘coconut’ can actually refer to the entire Coconut Palm. The term is derived from 16th century Portuguese and Spanish word cocos, meaning “grinning face”, from the three small holes on the coconut shell that resemble human facial features.

“GRINNING FACE”

The coconut shell reminded them of the ghost monster of Latin folklore referred to as  coco. The first known recorded usage of the term is 1555. The coconut itself is actually a fruit not a nut and due to its salinity tolerance can be found thriving  across the tropics and subtropics on many a sandy beach.

LANGKAWI FISHING HARBOR

I was told by a local naturalist that the coconut palm was not indigenous to Langkawi. I only imagined that any place where  coconuts grew in such abundance, would be a natural occurrence, thus indigenous.  But whose to say, really. The oldest fossils known were found in Australia and India, dated from about 37 to 55 million years ago!

HEADING TO A LAND NEAR YOU

And amazingly coconuts have been found as far north as Norway. Seafaring voyagers get some credit, since they stored many on board for those long ocean journeys, but worldwide tides and currents get most of the credit. Delivering the precious gifts to many a shore. The list of coconut uses is rather lengthy, but fascinating. Here is just a few.

 

Coconut Water

This is the clear refreshing liquid that comes directly from the core of the coconut. It’s a natural isotonic electrolyte balanced drink that is served by cutting a hole through the top of the green coconut and inserting a straw.  It is even used as an emergency IV hydration solution because it mixes easily  with blood.

LANGKAWI LOCAL, DIN EXPERTLY CUTS THE COCONUT

THE BEAT THE HEAT DRINK!

 

Coconut oil

This is pressed from the coconut meat and can be used for cooking as well as a natural beauty product for hair and skin. There is increasing research on the health benefits from oral consumption of virgin coconut oil.  Langkawi local ‘Mama’ made me a believer!

‘MAMA’ MAKES VIRGIN COCONUT OIL

‘MAMA’ KNOWS VIRGIN COCONUT OIL


MOSQUITO REPELLENT

The husk or hard shell can be burned to repel those pesky mosquitoes and
also makes an excellent charcoal for  barbecuing.

FRIENDS AYU AND ZAMBRI BURNING HUSKS

In addition, the shell is used to make all sorts of handy things; bowls, spoons, ladles, strainers, etc. Ever watch an old western movie? The sound of the horses clopping along is made using coconut shells! The shells are also used as the main body in many traditional musical instruments throughout Asia.

AN ISLAND DRUM

As you can see, there is more to the ‘humble’ coconut than meets the eye!  So next time you’re lazing under a coconut palm sipping a tasty beverage, make a toast to one of nature’s true gifts.

A TOAST! TO THE COCONUT!

 

 


Tsunamis, Just Another Natural Disaster?

Natural Disasters are just a part of life for most of us, regardless of where we live. Some of us choose the hot spots or the hot spots choose us. Southeast Asia is ‘my’ latest hot spot.

I grew up on the Gulf Coast in Pensacola, Florida. Part of growing up was keeping track of the alphabetical names of the new arrivals for each hurricane season. (And in case you didn’t know, those wild crazy destructive forces of wind and waves are called hurricanes in the Northern Hemisphere and Typhoons in the Southern Hemisphere.)

BANDA ACEH APRIL 11, 2012

Destruction comes with a hit from a hurricane. Surfers love hurricanes if they keep off shore about 100 miles, because some sweet surf sessions are in the mix.  Beachcombers are given a golden opportunity to find some real gems. So you take the good with the bad.

 

HURRICANE SURFING

 

Some people choose to move as far inland as they can, to escape a potential hurricane hit. My parents moved almost 50 miles away from the coast and that year, the hurricane decided to take a short cut from the Gulf of Mexico to the Atlantic Ocean. Minor damage to my parents’ place, but that’s just life near a frequent hot spot, The Gulf of Mexico.

HURRICANE DESTRUCTION

After Florida, I moved to San Francisco, just after the EARTHQUAKE of 1989. The evidence of that disaster still visible and the memories still fresh. Every time I crossed that ‘repaired’ bridge I couldn’t get the images out of my head of the collapsing double decker bridge.

I had never felt an Earthquake before and knew nothing about them really. They happened to other people. My family in Florida said I was ‘crazy’ to live there! “They have Earthquakes!”

OAKLAND CALIFORNIA BRIDGE COLAPSE

In my years living in San Francisco, I became accustomed to that weird shaky feeling. But along with the rest of San Francisco, knew the safety drills and evacuation procedures by heart. Earthquakes miles away had us on full alert
for aftershocks and word spread fast.

Fast forward to Southeast Asia, Tsunami 2004. We had all watched the coverage on television and it was mind boggling to most of us. Everyone checking on friends who were traveling in the region, etc.  Little did I know at the time I would be in the region within the year.

A HOT SPOT

My first trip to Langkawi was in 2005 to a village that had actually been affected by the Tsunami of 2004, Kuala Teriang. It had already been repaired and looked like a nice quiet village. I spend most of my time their now and call it home. My family and friends in Florida and California? They say I’m crazy. “They have Tsunamis!”. (Are you seeing a pattern here?)

It was only later that I got a clearer picture of what had happened and how many lives had been affected. Family homes and businesses destroyed or damaged extensively. ‘Fortunately’, only one fatal casualty. But the psychological damage? Who really knows?  I have since spoken to a few people about that day in 2004. One ex-pat woman I know who was at home when it hit, still won’t speak of the experience. A cruising family moved off of their boat to live on land, because the wife was having nightmares and began sleepwalking. And what of the local people?

 

2004 ‘PENANG’ TSUNAMI

 

Some people seem hesitant to live near the sea now, but I cherish the sea and what comes with it. Good and not so good.  A few years ago I  asked a local man if he had ever heard of such a ‘natural disaster’ happening in Langkawi before. Had his grandfather ever mentioned anything from a story passed on from his grandfather? His answer was no. But then I did a bit of research and found that historically this may have been the first recorded.

 

2004 ‘LANGKAWI’ TSUNAMI

 

 I do believe lightening can strike twice in the same place and so can natural disasters. Being prepared is an individual’s responsibility as well as a community. The Earthquake on April 11, 2012 in Sumatra had everyone
on Tsunami alert, including Langkawi. ‘We’ took it very seriously.

Thanks to social media,  information was Twittered out and shared on Facebook throughout Southeast Asia. Information that was important and pertinent. This in addition to local law enforcement going door-to-door to provide information was good insurance that no one would be caught off guard.

FISHING HARBOR KUALA TERIANG

As I write this, I’m thankful that the Andaman Sea is quiet this beautiful
April 12 morning. I’m happy to live seaside. People who live with hurricanes, earthquakes, tornadoes and tsunamis are always happy to see they were spared a direct hit and our hearts go out to those who were not.  All we can do is be prepared and help share  correct information from reliable sources. Some of us who have experienced ‘natural disasters’ take them very seriously.