Category Archives: Langkawi

Cruising the Andaman Islands: Langkawi to Phuket

Posted on March 18, 2013 by | Leave a comment

One of the options of getting from Langkawi to as far as Phuket, in one day,
is by high-speed ferry. This window of opportunity is only available from about early November to mid April, due to seasonal winds and waves. I’d seen the service advertised but couldn’t quite source the precise information, so I  dropped into a local travel/tour agency hoping to fill in the gaps.

A treasure map of travel options!

I didn’t just walk into any old travel agency, I hit pay dirt and landed unknowingly into Global Steps Holidays and the office of Andaman Cruise in Pantai Cenang, the Langkawi representative for Tigerline Travel. I’d heard from others’ experiences that the long distant island hops weren’t always pleasant, so I had to experience it for myself. My goal was to go to round-trip from Langkawi to Koh Lanta and ‘blog’ the experience. So here’s how it works…

That 08:30 Langkawi check-in is amazingly fast.

You can book a ticket online for pick up from any island point from Langkawi to Phuket, but booking a Langkawi outward bound  speed boat to high-speed ferry sojourn can also be done in person one-day prior to departure.
Sure, you can save a little money by booking on-line, but if you’d rather be spontaneous and come face-to-face with real people? Let it be known that this option is available at  Global Steps Holiday / Andaman Cruise.

The very busy Porto Awana.

There are some inclusives in this arraignment and some non-inclusives, so please take note. Hotel pick up at the beginning of your journey is included, but not included for incoming (arrivals to Langkawi). It won’t cost you an arm and a leg, it’ll simply be the taxi-van fare share from Langkawi immigration’s office to where ever you choose.

Escort service from Langkawi to Koh Lipe includes these funny guys.

Any long-tail pick-ups en-route from ferry to shore will be 50-baht, payable to the local talent. It’s also wise to change some ringgit into baht prior to departures to Thailand or baht into ringgit for arrivals into Malaysia. Why? For food purchases along the way or taxi rides when hitting land. Expect to deal in appropriate currency and don’t expect to meet a new ‘friend’ on shore who will give-you-a-better-exchange-rate-because-you–live-a-charmed-life. Do expect, the unexpected.

Good-bye, Langkawi!

Ok, enough about that.  Check in time for a Langkawi departure is 8:30am sharp, before heading to immigrations. Transportation will be arraigned for you ahead of time and is included. After immigrations you’re taken to Porto Awana, the luggage is loaded, and you’ll be outward bound by 9:30am-ish.

From transfer from speed boat to Koh Lipe dock, can be tricky.

Occasionally winds and currents can alter precise time schedules, so keep that in mind and try not to moan, “We’re late!” And try not to check your watch every three minutes; you’re on holiday so enjoy the trip. Thailand is also an hour behind Langkawi, so you’re going to gain an hour. Or lose an hour depending on your travel destination. It’s at this point I should recommend you give yourself plenty of time to catch pre-booked flights, etc. Even if some kind soul told you, “Oh, you’ll have plenty of time!” expect the unexpected.

Koh Lipe immigration check-in delivery, via ‘traditional’ long-tail.

There’s a quick immigration stop in Koh Lipe for official Thailand entry, if you’re heading onward and Koh Lipe drop offs and pick-ups as well. By 10:30am (Thai time) and a quick transfer to the Tigerline Travel’s high-speed ferry, you’ll be on your way heading north for a very scenic journey of the Andaman Islands.

You can’t beat great staff like this!

Here’s where I need to forewarn you again. There may be some small athletic maneuvers required when going from speedboat to docks or long-tail boats and a potential to get wet (or drenched), so practical shoes and waterproofing would be to your advantage.

This would be the ‘modern’ long-tail pick-up.

The next actual dock landings are at Had Yao Pier, Koh Lanta, Ao Nang and Phuket. Any island transfers in between will be from ferry to long-tail boat, this is where the practical shoes, waterproofing and baht-on-hand advice comes in again.  These long-tail boat taxis are arraigned ahead of time from Tigerline connections on shore, so rest assured you aren’t being delivered to a ‘stranger’.

Empty seats can equal a great napping spot later!

From Langkawi to the Had Yao Pier will take about 4-hours or so, and the only food available will be a few drinks and snacks for purchase (with baht) on-board the ferry. You’ll be fine if you’re a Pringles fan, but for something more substantial you’ll be glad you have those baht on hand when the boat hits Had Yao Pier. Within seconds of docking, locals come aboard selling fresh fruit, drinks, sandwiches and a variety of homemade goodies. And remember the next dock stop and food source will be in Koh Lanta another 3-hours away.

Had Yao Pier drop-off, pick-up and food!

The expected 6-hour-plus journey to Koh Lanta for me was Internet-free time well spent.  Arriving about 4:30pm actually was later than ‘scheduled’, but not a problem; my agenda was ‘no agenda’.  There’s also plenty of walking room and ample space on the Tigerline ferries, inside as well as the upper deck, so you won’t feel claustrophobic. You could even go top-side and re-enactment the Titanic’s  “I’m King of the World!” scene if you feel inspired.

The much appreciated Had Yao Pier welcome wagon.

On a sunny day, the view is spectacular and the rather loud engine noises eventually become background rumblings. I personally wish I’d gone all the way to the end of the line in Phuket, but there’s always next time. Or the time after that. But wait! I’ve got one more tip for you.
If you happen to be going ’round-trip’, don’t let anyone keep your paper work unless they give you some sort of proof of purchase/reservation document to replace it. It could be a problem for you on the intended return trip.

The less dramatic version of, “I’m King of the World!”

Although the window of opportunity is roughly November to mid-May there are eleven possible points of exploration  through the Andaman-Tigerline connection and a superb option for travel and adventure.  The prices will vary depending on destination points and there are occasionally on-line ‘specials’ to take advantage of, so keep that in mind when planning your trip.

The Koh Lanta arrival is smooth sailing.

And just an added note here; although there are other Langkawi companies that can get you to Koh Lipe, the Andaman Cruise-Tigerline Travel connection is the only one whose time schedule allows you to bypass an over night Koh Lipe stay and travel onward in the same day. Bon voyage!

 

Andaman Cruise
http://langkawilipe.com/index.php?opt=home
Tigerline Travel
http://www.tigerlinetravel.com/

 

 

→ Leave a comment

Posted in Ko Lipe, Langkawi, Langkawi Sailing, Thailand

Tagged , , , , , , , ,

Langkawi Wet Markets

Posted on January 15, 2013 by | Leave a comment

Unless you’re a cruising sailor and well versed in Southeast Asian produce or have some previous island life experience; shopping for food on some islands can sometimes be challenging. Learning about local produce and their uses is a cultural experience you simply don’t get from a book, so the reward for your efforts can bring useful knowledge for the future and some interesting memories.

Fauna Flora Eco, tour guide Abidin Hussin, my wet market guru.

Being rather spoiled with the plethora of produce options in high-end metropolitan supermarkets, new arrivals to island life may find there’s a price to pay for those now-considered-imported- food items. But guess what? You can often find their equivalent at the local wet market at a considerable savings. Whether you migrate to Langkawi permanently or take extended holidays here, wet market knowledge is king.

Matsirat wet market.

At some wet markets you may find yourself the only ‘foreigner’ in a sea of ‘local’ faces, but that’s part of the adventure. And often times market venders will gladly introduce you to their produce and their uses, so keep a notepad with you and take notes because this is priceless information!

This Matsirat wet market stall specializes in local and ‘imported’ fruits.

Some first time visitors to a wet market may find meat and produce presentation disturbing, but remember these methods have lasted the test of time and many generations. Eggs being stored on non-refrigerated shelves? Sure you’ll get an occasional bad egg, but you’ll not find a more beautiful natural colored or flavorful yolk as with local fresh eggs. Prefer organic chicken? Well you haven’t tasted chicken until you’ve tasted Langkawi free-range and at a fraction of the price!

Yes, they’ll remove the feet for you free of charge!

Now, when it comes to vegetables, you’ll recognize plenty of your old favorites from back ‘home’, but you may not always see what you need for a particular favorite recipe. You may see vegetables that look similar, but are they? There are also vegetables that look nothing like their western counterpart, but cook and taste the same.

Quite an assortment, eh?

Squashes, gourds and melons lead the way in culinary mystery, often labeled under the general name of Labu. Labu merah looks like a large Acorn Squash but is your equivalent to Pumpkin, while a smaller ‘pumpkin-looking’ version is identical to Acorn Squash in cooking and taste.

Langkawi ‘pumpkin’ on right.

There are a myriad of leafy greens available including Bok Choy, Kai Lan and even Spinach (bayam). Bayam, which is identified by its red stem, cooks and tastes like spinach, at a fraction of the price of imported English Spinach. It doesn’t need refrigeration either if the stems are placed in water.

The one ringgit Basil bouquet.

When it comes to meats and fish, you’ll not find a better retail bargain than at the wet market. A whole chicken (ayam) will cost you an average 12 ringgit.  Usually feet and head removal is free as is the additional ‘chopping’ or halving. Fish are a bit trickier, because some locals actually prefer the taste of older seafood. As a westerner, I prefer shopping for the freshest.

This couple seemed to have wet market savvy.

Some say the redder the gills the fresher the fish, so possibly a better indicator than the clear versus filmy eyes. Fish and shrimp generally go for 5-10 ringgit a kilo, clams 5 ringgit a kilo and crabs 20 ringgit a kilo. Again a simple request and a little pantomiming, if language is an issue, can usually get your fish cleaned for free.

Tasty local crabs are a great bargain.

There are two major wet markets in Langkawi. One is in Matsirat, near the airport and the larger one is in Kuah. They usually open early mornings and again late afternoons, with variations depending on public holidays. If you’re new to the area of wet market shopping I’d recommend a wet market tour,
either by a Langkawi local or a professional tour guide. Two recommended sources for that would be Fauna Flora Eco Tours and Dev’s Adventure Tours, where you’ll get more in depth information. Remember wet market knowledge is king!

 

→ Leave a comment

Posted in Langkawi, Langkawi Food

Tagged , , ,

Compost 101 at the Frangipani Langkawi

Posted on August 5, 2012 by | Leave a comment

The Frangipani Langkawi Resort & Spa   has been tackling waste management  issues for years and they practice what they preach .They
recently had Hafiz from PPSPPA come and demonstrate Takakura Home Composting Method, a waste management practice being implemented throughout Southeast Asia. Surabaya, Indonesia and Sibu, Sarawak
have already seen environmental improvements with this practice.

ZU INTRODUCING HAFIZ

VISITORS FROM SABAH TOURISM COUNCIL

My friend Zuraidah (Zu) is quite passionate about environmental issues, especially when it comes to recycling and waste management. It’s only fitting that she became part of the Team at Frangipani  Langkawi . Zu knew of my previous failed attempts at composting, so she invited me to the demonstration being given to visitors from Sabah Tourism Council.

IT STARTS WITH KITCHEN SCRAPS, WATER, SALT/YOGURT

FINELY CHOPPING KITCHEN SCRAPS

It generally takes a couple of weeks  for organic waste to decompose, through the process of decay and fermentation.  The decaying process is actually what causes the bad ‘odor’. The Takakura Method enlists fermentation to neutralize the decay aroma.

By initially adding kitchen scraps to a mixer of salt and water or yogurt/gula merah and water, a storable fermenting liquid is made. After one week, you can start your ‘magic bucket’, Mr. Takakura’s
name for the composting ‘container’.

EQUAL PARTS OF CHICKEN FEED, WOOD SHAVINGS AND TOP SOIL

PERFECT CONSISTENCY WILL ALLOW BALL SHAPE

The compost ‘starter’ for the magic bucket is made with equal parts of chicken feed, top soil, wood shavings or leaves (crumbled). By mixing the dry ingredients with the fermented liquid  concoction, the base of the compost is made. The proper consistency is reached when you can actually form a ball with the mixture. At this point you’re ready to add to your ‘magic bucket’ and begin your home compost.

‘MAGIC BUCKET’ MADE FROM BASIC SUPPLIES

By adding some of the ‘thickened’ compost material to the magic bucket, you can the proceed to add chopped kitchen scraps as they accumulate and mixing it in. We were told even fish ‘guts’ could be added without causing a stench! The fermented liquid speeds up the decomposing process of all the organic waste creating a beautiful compost usable for gardening . Some individuals have taken the process farther and are now making extra income by selling their home-made compost.

 

*PPSPPA in Langkawi is available to demonstrate this easy waste management solution to other hotels, groups or schools, free of charge. You can call them at +6 04 966 4735
or + 6 04 966 4735

 

→ Leave a comment

Posted in Eco, Langkawi

Tagged , , , , , , ,

The Humble Coconut

Posted on April 29, 2012 by | Leave a comment

When we think of Palm trees, most people think of tropical islands.  Lazing under a coconut palm listening to sound of the surf and drinking a coconut infused cocktail… But in Langkawi, like many island environments, the coconut palm has a much broader purpose.

LANGKAWI PALMS

Its the fruit of plenty for an assortment of foodstuffs, health products, household items and even construction material.

ISLAND GUEST SHOPPING FOR COCONUTS

The term ‘coconut’ can actually refer to the entire Coconut Palm. The term is derived from 16th century Portuguese and Spanish word cocos, meaning “grinning face”, from the three small holes on the coconut shell that resemble human facial features.

“GRINNING FACE”

The coconut shell reminded them of the ‘ghost monster‘ of Latin folklore referred to as  coco. The first known recorded usage of the term is 1555. The coconut itself is actually a fruit not a nut and due to its salinity tolerance can be found thriving  across the tropics and subtropics on many a sandy beach.

LANGKAWI FISHING HARBOR

I was told by a local naturalist that the coconut palm was not indigenous to Langkawi. I only imagined that any place where  coconuts grew in such abundance, would be a natural occurrence, thus indigenous.  But whose to say, really. The oldest fossils known were found in Australia and India, dated from about 37 to 55 million years ago!

HEADING TO A LAND NEAR YOU

And amazingly coconuts have been found as far north as Norway. Seafaring voyagers get some credit, since they stored many on board for those long ocean journeys, but worldwide tides and currents get most of the credit. Delivering the precious gifts to many a shore. The list of coconut uses is rather lengthy, but fascinating. Here is just a few.

 

Coconut Water

This is the clear refreshing liquid that comes directly from the core of the coconut. It’s a natural isotonic electrolyte balanced drink that is served by cutting a hole through the top of the green coconut and inserting a straw.  It is even used as an emergency IV hydration solution because it mixes easily  with blood.

LANGKAWI LOCAL, DIN EXPERTLY CUTS THE COCONUT

THE BEAT THE HEAT DRINK!

 

Coconut oil

This is pressed from the coconut meat and can be used for cooking as well as a natural beauty product for hair and skin. There is increasing research on the health benefits from oral consumption of virgin coconut oil.  Langkawi local ‘Mama’ made me a believer!

‘MAMA’ MAKES VIRGIN COCONUT OIL

‘MAMA’ KNOWS VIRGIN COCONUT OIL


MOSQUITO REPELLENT

The husk or hard shell can be burned to repel those pesky mosquitoes and
also makes an excellent charcoal for  barbecuing.

FRIENDS AYU AND ZAMBRI BURNING HUSKS

In addition, the shell is used to make all sorts of handy things; bowls, spoons, ladles, strainers, etc. Ever watch an old western movie? The sound of the horses clopping along is made using coconut shells! The shells are also used as the main body in many traditional musical instruments throughout Asia.

AN ISLAND DRUM

As you can see, there is more to the ‘humble’ coconut than meets the eye!  So next time you’re lazing under a coconut palm sipping a tasty beverage, make a toast to one of nature’s true gifts.

A TOAST! TO THE COCONUT!

 

 


→ Leave a comment

Posted in Langkawi, Nature

Tagged , , , , ,

Tsunamis, Just Another Natural Disaster?

Posted on April 12, 2012 by | Leave a comment

Natural Disasters are just a part of life for most of us, regardless of where we live. Some of us choose the hot spots or the hot spots choose us. Southeast Asia is ‘my’ latest hot spot.

I grew up on the Gulf Coast in Pensacola, Florida. Part of growing up was keeping track of the alphabetical names of the new arrivals for each hurricane season. (And in case you didn’t know, those wild crazy destructive forces of wind and waves are called hurricanes in the Northern Hemisphere and Typhoons in the Southern Hemisphere.)

BANDA ACEH APRIL 11, 2012

Destruction comes with a hit from a hurricane. Surfers love hurricanes if they keep off shore about 100 miles, because some sweet surf sessions are in the mix.  Beachcombers are given a golden opportunity to find some real gems. So you take the good with the bad.

 

HURRICANE SURFING

 

Some people choose to move as far inland as they can, to escape a potential hurricane hit. My parents moved almost 50 miles away from the coast and that year, the hurricane decided to take a short cut from the Gulf of Mexico to the Atlantic Ocean. Minor damage to my parents’ place, but that’s just life near a frequent hot spot, The Gulf of Mexico.

HURRICANE DESTRUCTION

After Florida, I moved to San Francisco, just after the EARTHQUAKE of 1989. The evidence of that disaster still visible and the memories still fresh. Every time I crossed that ‘repaired’ bridge I couldn’t get the images out of my head of the collapsing double decker bridge.

I had never felt an Earthquake before and knew nothing about them really. They happened to other people. My family in Florida said I was ‘crazy’ to live there! “They have Earthquakes!”

OAKLAND CALIFORNIA BRIDGE COLAPSE

In my years living in San Francisco, I became accustomed to that weird shaky feeling. But along with the rest of San Francisco, knew the safety drills and evacuation procedures by heart. Earthquakes miles away had us on full alert
for aftershocks and word spread fast.

Fast forward to Southeast Asia, Tsunami 2004. We had all watched the coverage on television and it was mind boggling to most of us. Everyone checking on friends who were traveling in the region, etc.  Little did I know at the time I would be in the region within the year.

A HOT SPOT

My first trip to Langkawi was in 2005 to a village that had actually been affected by the Tsunami of 2004, Kuala Teriang. It had already been repaired and looked like a nice quiet village. I spend most of my time their now and call it home. My family and friends in Florida and California? They say I’m crazy. “They have Tsunamis!”. (Are you seeing a pattern here?)

It was only later that I got a clearer picture of what had happened and how many lives had been affected. Family homes and businesses destroyed or damaged extensively. ‘Fortunately’, only one fatal casualty. But the psychological damage? Who really knows?  I have since spoken to a few people about that day in 2004. One ex-pat woman I know who was at home when it hit, still won’t speak of the experience. A cruising family moved off of their boat to live on land, because the wife was having nightmares and began sleepwalking. And what of the local people?

 

2004 ‘PENANG’ TSUNAMI

 

Some people seem hesitant to live near the sea now, but I cherish the sea and what comes with it. Good and not so good.  A few years ago I  asked a local man if he had ever heard of such a ‘natural disaster’ happening in Langkawi before. Had his grandfather ever mentioned anything from a story passed on from his grandfather? His answer was no. But then I did a bit of research and found that historically this may have been the first recorded.

 

2004 ‘LANGKAWI’ TSUNAMI

 

 I do believe lightening can strike twice in the same place and so can natural disasters. Being prepared is an individual’s responsibility as well as a community. The Earthquake on April 11, 2012 in Sumatra had everyone
on Tsunami alert, including Langkawi. ‘We’ took it very seriously.

Thanks to social media,  information was Twittered out and shared on Facebook throughout Southeast Asia. Information that was important and pertinent. This in addition to local law enforcement going door-to-door to provide information was good insurance that no one would be caught off guard.

FISHING HARBOR KUALA TERIANG

As I write this, I’m thankful that the Andaman Sea is quiet this beautiful
April 12 morning. I’m happy to live seaside. People who live with hurricanes, earthquakes, tornadoes and tsunamis are always happy to see they were spared a direct hit and our hearts go out to those who were not.  All we can do is be prepared and help share  correct information from reliable sources. Some of us who have experienced ‘natural disasters’ take them very seriously.

 

 

→ Leave a comment

Posted in Langkawi, Nature, Ponderings

Tagged , , , , , , ,